Updated: Nov 17
As a lash artist you have to understand two things when it comes to your job, number one is how to make it look good and number two is how to make it last. If you only make it look good but it doesn’t last as long as it should, that is a big problem right there because that client won’t be returning I can promise you that. lash retention
You as an artist are supposed to be able to guarantee your client perfect retention. Achieving perfect retention is when the extension only falls off attached to the clients eyelash due to natural shedding. So when your client brushes their lashes and some extensions come off and they have a close look at it and there is no natural lash attached to that extension, something in the preparation and application pr
ocess was incorrect. If you followed every step correctly and created a strong bond, nothing should break that bond between the natural eyelash and the glued on extension.
Now we all know that lash adhesives has a shelf life which is around 5 weeks after you’ve opened the bottle. I always recommend to date your bottle or put a reminder in your phone when it’s s time to open a fresh bottle. Even if the bottle is still half full and it has been 4-5 weeks, you have to change it. It is easier to keep your adhesive fresh than have clients complaining about their lashes falling off a few days after the appointment because you didn’t want the last drops to go to “waist’.
Applying extensions to dirty natural lashes are just as time wasting brushing your teeth with a bar of chocolate and expecting a good outcome. The surface of the lashes and around the eye area has to be clean in order to create a good bond. Removing 100% of the makeup is super important, especially from the roots of the natural lashes! If there is any mascara ( or any sort of makeup ) left on the natural lashes, you will end up glueing the extensions to the mascara and not to your clients natural lashes.
IDEAL ROOM CONDITIONS
All eyelash extension glues contain cyanoacrylate, and cyanoacrylate reacts strongly to humidity - or the lack of it. It’s not gonna affect the retention BUT its gonna affect the drying time of the glue. The same glue will work differently during the winter and summer months. You can either adjust the temperature and humidity levels in your workspace or get diferent drying time glues. Faster glues in the winter will act slower ( 1 sec -> 1.5-2 sec ) and slower glues in the summer will act faster ( 2 sec -> 1 sec ). If the glue is too fast for your working speed it will dry before you can attach the extension to the natural lash!
HIGH TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY = FASTER GLUE
LOW TEMPERATUR & HUMIDITY = SLOWER GLUE
USE ENOUGH GLUE
So many lash artist thinks that they have to use the smallest amount of glue as possible in order to create a flawless set. NOT TRUE! The ideal attachment zone between the extension and the natural lash is around 2 mm or 1/3 of the length of the extension so don’t be afraid to use enough glue! To make the extensions hug the natural lash use a micro drop. Micro drop is a small bubble of glue at the end of the extension, and no.. you won’t have stickiest because of it!
IDEAL APPLICATION DISTANCE
We should always try to apply the extension fairly close to the eyelid so they will look tidy for longer time. The ideal distance is around 0.5mm-1mm in the middle part of the eye where the natural lashes are generally longer and stronger and 0.3mm in the inner and outer corner where the natural lashes are shorter and thinner. If you apply them to close it will irritate the client and they are more likely to rub or pull them out. If you apply them too far they will look like an outgrown set ( gonna twist and weight down the natural lash ) instead of a fresh set.
PRIMERS, CLEANSERS, ETC..
If you use the preparation products such as cleanser, primer or any sort of speed up solution incorrectly, you can change the surface of the natural lashes without you knowing it. Some products contain a lot of alcohol which will dry out the surface of the natural lashes and on sensitive client even the skin around the eyes, that means that there will be no or too little moisture and your glue simply won’t cure.
AWAYS TRY TO GET RID OF ANY MAKEUP OR RESIDUES WITH LASH BATHS AND WATER.
All these synthetic products contains alcohol!
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