Updated: Nov 17
In order to choose the correct styling for each client and create a bespoke lash mapping, we must first look at our client's eye shape and face structure. Does she have round eyes, downturned eyes or perhaps a closed set of eyes? Does she have a lot of natural lashes to work with or maybe there are some gaps on the last line that we will have to cover?
This is one of the reasons why it's important to have a short consultation before the actual appointment so you can assess the client's features and discuss what style would suit her the best and would compliment her natural beauty. In this post, we are going to go through how to identify the difference between narrow, proportional and wide set of eyes.
The easiest way to work out whether the client has a proportional, close or wide set of eyes is to look at the distance between the inner corners of the eyes and compare it with the width of the eye.
▫️If the distance between the inner corners are equal to the width of the eye than it's a proportional set of eyes.
▫️ If the distance between the inner corners is wider than the width of the eye, it's a wide set of eyes.
▫️If the distance between the inner corners is smaller than the width of the eye, it's a close set of eyes.
Let’s talk a bit about clients who have a wide set of eyes first. For clients with a wide set of eyes our aim is to visually bring the eyes closer to each other to create the illusion of a proportional set. You can achieve this result with two techniques ↴
1) First always make sure that you choose a suitable styling, it is recommended to use either mirrored squirrel or dolly for this eye shape. Try to avoid cat-eye styling or soft curls ( such as B, C ) and long lengths ( 12mm+ ) in the outer section as this will only make the eyes look wider than they actually are ( this is exactly the opposite of what we want to achieve here ) Once you are ready with the mapping you can draw some little arrows on the eyepatches as well to help you with your direction and placement. Between the middle of the eye and the inner corner, we are going to draw the arrows and place the extensions facing towards the nose at a 70-degree angle instead of using the usual 90 degrees. Between the middle of the eye and the outer corner, we are going to draw the arrows and place the extensions straight facing up at a 90-degree angle.
2) You can also manipulate the look by using different coloured extensions, for example, black lashes in the inner corner of the eyes and fade it towards the outer corner by changing to a dark brown colour from the middle part. By using darker extensions in the inner section you will make the eyes look narrow because the attention is on the inner corner. Hope this makes sense, so black lashes in the inner section and dark brown or chocolate brown lashes in the outer section.
To help you visualise better how different styles would look on a wide set of eyes, I’ve created some examples for you. You can see two different styling on these following pictures, one of them is cat-eye and the other one is dolly or open eye. ↴
sinlash eyelash extension styling & mapping techniques